Category Archives: Arts

Umbria, Italy: Perugia, Art Studio, Mansions and Fine Arts

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-View-From-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-4-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Studio Moretti Caselli

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Studio-Moretti-Caselli-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Refinement and authenticity

Arrived the night before from the little town of Norcia, on our first day of real discovery of Perugia, a city of arts, we follow the PAAST route (Percorsi Arte Artigianato Storia Tradizione: Path Art Crafts History Tradition) that leads us to studio and mansions of noble families.

First visit to the Studio Moretti Caseli Museo, “artistic stained glass”, see the photomontage above: on the first photo, Maddalena Forenza is the fifth generation of this family of stained glass artists. His grandfather Francesco Moretti initiated this activity in 1859.

Beautiful studio with giant drawings made by hand (I am a fan of blavk and white pencil drawings), where dominates classical art in a very old architecture. And you travel in time with taste, refinement and authenticity.

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Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia

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Wealth and Power 

When I enter in the Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia (Noble College of Goods), I am impressed with wooden decorative panels covering walls and high vaulted ceilings. 

In 1342, the Noble College of Goods was the most important company of the city, but had not a specific location until 1390, “when the city, in settlement of a debt of 1400 guilders, granted the guild of merchants” a warehouse on the ground floor of the Palazzo dei Priori, Corso Vannucci (source Wikipedia).

On the first picture: one of four figures representing Prudenza, Fortezza, Giustizia, Temperanza (Prudence, Strength, Justice, Temperance). Photo below: San Lorenzo Cathedral.

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Near-Collegio-della-Mercanzia-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Casa Museo Sorbello

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Near San Lorenzo Cathedral

For our third visit, we discover the mansion Marchesi di Sorbello Bourbon (Marquis of Sorbello Bourbon), a 17th century palazzo with a collection of paintings, porcelain, books, manuscripts and embroidery, as well as furniture and chandeliers of the 18th century. I am not fond of decorative arts of the 18th, too mannerist for me. 

By cons I really liked the will and action of the entrepreneur woman, the Marchesa Romeyne Robert Ranieri di Sorbello to socially empower women by the embroidery, in the early twentieth century. This work allowed them to acquire a financial autonomy and have a better social position.

From the palace terrace, the panoramic views of Perugia and Assisi valley are gorgeous.

              Umbria-Italy-Perugia-In-Front-of-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K  Umbria-Italy-Perugia-In-Front-of-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-2-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Casa Museo degli Oddi Marini Clarelli

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In Porta Santa Susanna Neighborhood

The Palazzo degli Oddi (one of the oldest and most powerful noble families of Perugia) was built in the 16th century. On the first picture of the photo montage above, the beautiful painted wooden ceiling from the early 17th century, of one of the rooms on the ground floor.

Time flies and we head towards the Museo dell’Accademia di Belle Arti (Museum of Fine Arts).

              Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Near-Casa-Museo-degli-Oddi-Marini-Clarelli-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K  Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Around-Museo-dell'Accademia-di-Belle-Arti-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Museo dell’Accademia di Belle Arti

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In the Academy of Fine Arts

founded in 1573: the museum presents in its main gallery, the plasters of famous artists such as Michell’Angelo and in the two other galleries, paintings, drawings and prints.

I lingered long among the plasters (some with giant proportions). The inspiring nice space also boasts a lovely natural light.

Déjeuner à l’Umbrò

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At the beginning of the afternoon I am happy to finally sit down and have lunch at the Umbrò, a friendly modern place, both fast food and fine grocery of Italian products. To be continued …

Photos : © Mademoiselle Le K – Tous droits réservés

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Regione Umbria, PAAST route and Alitalia

Related posts : DESTINATIONS & LIFESTYLE

Many thanks for this beautiful invitation to Regione Umbria et Alitalia. As always these opinions are my own.

Ombrie, Italie: Perouse, atelier, demeures et beaux arts

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-View-From-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-4-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Studio Moretti Caselli

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Studio-Moretti-Caselli-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Raffinement et authenticité

Arrivées la veille au soir, de la petite ville de Norciapour notre premier jour de réelle découverte de Perouse, ville des arts, nous suivons le parcours PAAST (Percorsi Arte Artigianato Storia Tradizione: Parcours Art Artisanat Histoire Tradition) qui nous mène d’ateliers d’artisans d’art aux deumeures très anciennes de familles nobles.

Première visite au Studio Moretti Caseli Museo“laboratoire de vitraux artistiques”, voir le photo-montage ci-dessus : sur la première photo, Maddalena Forenza représente la cinquième génération de cette famille d’artistes du vitrail. Son aïeul Francesco Moretti a initié cette activité en 1859.

Superbe atelier avec des dessins géants réalisés à la main (je suis une fane du crayon, fusin etc… ), où l’art classique prédomine dans une architecture très ancienne. On voyage dans le temps, avec goût, raffinement et authenticité. 

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Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Collegio-della-Mercanzia-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Richesse et puissance 

En entrant  dans le Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia (Noble Collège de Marchandises), siège de la société marchande de Pérouse qui dès 1279 bénéficiait d’un statut privilégié : je suis impressionné par les panneaux décoratifs en bois recouvrant murs et hauts plafonds en forme de voûtes. 

En 1342, le Noble Collège de la marchandise était la plus grande entreprise de la ville, mais n’avait pas de place fixe jusqu’à 1390 : “quand la ville, en règlement d’une dette de 1400 florins, a accordé à la corporation des marchands” un des entrepôts sur le rez de chaussée du Palazzo dei Priori, Corso Vannucci (source Wikipedia).

Sur la première photo : une des quatres figurines représentant Prudenza, Fortezza, Giustizia, Temperanza (la Prudence, la Force, la Justice, la Tempérance). Photo ci-dessous : la cathédrale San Lorenzo

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Casa Museo Sorbello

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A deux pas de la cathédrale San Lorenzo

Pour notre troisième visite, nous découvrons le manoir du Marchesi di Bourbon Sorbello (Marquis de Bourbon Sorbello), un palais du XVIIe siècle comprenant une collection de peintures, porcelaines, livres, manuscrits et broderies, ainsi que des meubles et lustres du XVIIIe. Je ne raffole pas des arts déco du XVIIIe, trop manièristes pour moi. 

Par contre j’ai beaucoup aimé la volonté et l’action de la Marchesa Romeyne Robert Ranieri di Sorbello, femme entrepreur, d’émanciper socialement les femmes de la région par la broderie, au début du XXe siècle. Ce travail leur permettait d’acquerrir une autonomie financière et d’avoir une meilleure position sociale.

Depuis la terrasse du palais, la vue panoramique sur Pérouse et la vallée d’Assise est superbe.

              Umbria-Italy-Perugia-In-Front-of-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K  Umbria-Italy-Perugia-In-Front-of-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-2-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Casa Museo degli Oddi Marini Clarelli

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Casa-Museo-degli-Oddi-Marini-Clarelli-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Dans le quartier Porta Santa Susanna

Le Palazzo degli Oddi (une des plus anciennes et puissantes famille nobles de Pérouse) a été construit au XVIe siècle. Sur la première photo (du photo montage ci-dessus) : dans une des salles du rez-de-chaussée (qui m’ont le plus plu), un très beau plafond en bois peint, du début du XVIIe siècle. 

Le temps presse, nous continuons notre parcours vers le Museo dell’Accademia di Belle Arti

              Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Near-Casa-Museo-degli-Oddi-Marini-Clarelli-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K  Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Around-Museo-dell'Accademia-di-Belle-Arti-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Museo dell’Accademia di Belle Arti

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Dans l’Académie des Beaux Arts

fondée en 1573 : le musée présente dans sa principale galerie, des plâtres d’artistes célèbres comme Michell’Angelo, et dans ses deux autres galeries, des peintures, des dessins et des estampes.

Je me suis longuement attardée parmi les plâtres (dont certains aux proportions géantes). L’espace, très agréable et inspirant, est baigné d’une belle lumière naturelle. 

Déjeuner à l’Umbrò

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Lunch-Umbro-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

En début d’après-midi je suis heureuse de pouvoir enfin m’assoir et déjeuner à l’Umbrò, un endroit moderne et sympa, à la fois restaurant rapide, épicerie fine et traiteur de produits italiens. A suivre…

Photos : © Mademoiselle Le K – Tous droits réservés

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Regione Umbria, Parcours PAASTAlitalia.

Autres articles : DESTINATIONS & HOTEL REVIEWS

Un grand merci à Regione Umbria et Alitalia pour cette belle invitation. Comme toujours ce sont mes opinions.

Umbria, Italy: Towards Amelia and Perugia

Umbria-Italy-Amelia-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

A Benedictine Abbey

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This morning we leave Norcia

and the elegant Palazzo Seneca (déjà!) to Perugia. On the road, we stopped at the Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle, a Benedictine abbey dating back to the eighth century, on the Mount Solemn.

Surrounded by unspoilt landscape with tall cypress (my favorite trees), the place lends itself to introspection and quiet. Beautiful autumn light, soothing silence and superb frescoes of the small church dating from different eras.

The legend says two hermits from Syria, John and Lazarus built a hermitage that became a place of worship for local populations. Later Faraldo II, Duke of Spoleto, had a vision in a dream. St. Peter ordered him to build a church in his honor. During a hunt, the Duke spotted the little oratory of John and Lazarus and decided to built there the church dedicated to St. Peter and the monastery.

Next stop: the Cascata delle Marmore Marmore waterfalls). Road trip …..

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Cascata delle Marmore (Marmore Waterfalls)

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It rains

when we come to the Cascata delle Marmore, the highest artificial waterfall in the world, with a height of 165 m! Water makes a deafening noise: first impression of power (above photo montage)! I feel like a lilliput.

The three levels waterfall (the biggest level measures 83 m), was created by the Roman consul Curio Dentato (in 271 BC) to drain standing water. You can borrow several paths to reach the different levels. The two most beautiful points of views are the Balcone degli Specola and Innamorati (Lovers Balcony).

On a trail, we come across Gnefro (or rather the opposite, lol!), the mascot of the falls (a kind of green goblin), played by an actor who tells the children the legend of Velino.

One day the shepherd Velino saw from the top of a cliff nymphs. Surprised, they fled, except Nera, the most beautiful. Nera and Velino madly fell in love and get married which put the gods angry. They transformed Nera in river. Inconsolable Velino threw himself into the river. But before he reached the water, he was transformed in cascade by Jupiter.  

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Amelia

Umbria-Italy-Amelia-Museo-Archeologico-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

The Archaeological Museum  

After a late lunch in Amelia, one of the oldest cities of Italy (built previous centuries before Rome) and probably the oldest settlement in Umbria: I visit the Archaeological Museum. I like the austere architecture of the cloister (pictures above).

The museum’s centerpiece is a bronze statue of Germanicus (Germanicus Nero Claudius Drusus), born in Rome in 15 BC and son of Senior General Drusus, brother of the future emperor Tiberius (picture 4 on the photo montage above).

Germanicus had a brilliant political and military career. He died at 34 years old of an unknown illness. Suspicion felt on his uncle and adopted father, Tiberius who didn’t like his growing popularity.

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The Teatro Sociale and Cisterne Romane

I follow Michela, our guide, in a maze of small streets in the top of the old town. Colorful facades and beautiful panoramic views of the valley (see the first picture in this article).

At the corner of a flourish narrow street, the bright yellow façade of the Teatro Sociale (Rosita Bassini), built in 1782 by architect Stefano Consacchi. With a capacity of 200 seats, his stage mechanisms are still used for concerts and plays. On the above photo montage, a picture of the balconies and ceiling. 

Then we head towards the Cisterne Romane (Roman Cisterns). While we choose our helmets, the excitement grows. These ten cisterns built when Amelia became a Roman municipality, remain intact. Rain water was stored there and inhabitants could use this water freely.

On the photo montage above: the steep stairs, one of the tanks, the main entrance and one of the exits to move from one tank to another. A must “visit” for all lovers of ancient history!

Dinner in Perugia

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Dinner-Ristorante-del-Sol-Gelateria-Artigianale-Biologica-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Hi Perugia! It’s 8 p.m. when we arrive in the historic center of Perugia. Dinner at Ristorante del Sole with excellent truffle risotto (1), breaded turkey filets and a panoramic view over Umbria. Too bad it’s already dark …

The medieval center of the city is gorgeous … and crowded! Perugia is a student city with a vibrant lively atmosphere. Good vibe! In dessert, a biological icecream at the Gelateria Artigianale Biologica (Corso Vannucci 93), highly recommended by Francesca, a proud native and resident of Perugia : )) Buonasera ai tutti!

Photos : © Mademoiselle Le K – Tous droits réservés

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Regione Umbria et Alitalia

Related posts : DESTINATIONS & HOTEL REVIEWS

Many thanks for this beautiful invitation to Regione Umbria et Alitalia. As always these opinions are my own.