Tag Archives: Short Stay

Umbria, Italy: Perugia, Art Studio, Mansions and Fine Arts

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-View-From-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-4-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Studio Moretti Caselli

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Refinement and authenticity

Arrived the night before from the little town of Norcia, on our first day of real discovery of Perugia, a city of arts, we follow the PAAST route (Percorsi Arte Artigianato Storia Tradizione: Path Art Crafts History Tradition) that leads us to studio and mansions of noble families.

First visit to the Studio Moretti Caseli Museo, “artistic stained glass”, see the photomontage above: on the first photo, Maddalena Forenza is the fifth generation of this family of stained glass artists. His grandfather Francesco Moretti initiated this activity in 1859.

Beautiful studio with giant drawings made by hand (I am a fan of blavk and white pencil drawings), where dominates classical art in a very old architecture. And you travel in time with taste, refinement and authenticity.

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Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia

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Wealth and Power 

When I enter in the Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia (Noble College of Goods), I am impressed with wooden decorative panels covering walls and high vaulted ceilings. 

In 1342, the Noble College of Goods was the most important company of the city, but had not a specific location until 1390, “when the city, in settlement of a debt of 1400 guilders, granted the guild of merchants” a warehouse on the ground floor of the Palazzo dei Priori, Corso Vannucci (source Wikipedia).

On the first picture: one of four figures representing Prudenza, Fortezza, Giustizia, Temperanza (Prudence, Strength, Justice, Temperance). Photo below: San Lorenzo Cathedral.

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Casa Museo Sorbello

Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Near San Lorenzo Cathedral

For our third visit, we discover the mansion Marchesi di Sorbello Bourbon (Marquis of Sorbello Bourbon), a 17th century palazzo with a collection of paintings, porcelain, books, manuscripts and embroidery, as well as furniture and chandeliers of the 18th century. I am not fond of decorative arts of the 18th, too mannerist for me. 

By cons I really liked the will and action of the entrepreneur woman, the Marchesa Romeyne Robert Ranieri di Sorbello to socially empower women by the embroidery, in the early twentieth century. This work allowed them to acquire a financial autonomy and have a better social position.

From the palace terrace, the panoramic views of Perugia and Assisi valley are gorgeous.

              Umbria-Italy-Perugia-In-Front-of-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K  Umbria-Italy-Perugia-In-Front-of-Casa-Museo-Sorbello-2-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Casa Museo degli Oddi Marini Clarelli

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In Porta Santa Susanna Neighborhood

The Palazzo degli Oddi (one of the oldest and most powerful noble families of Perugia) was built in the 16th century. On the first picture of the photo montage above, the beautiful painted wooden ceiling from the early 17th century, of one of the rooms on the ground floor.

Time flies and we head towards the Museo dell’Accademia di Belle Arti (Museum of Fine Arts).

              Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Near-Casa-Museo-degli-Oddi-Marini-Clarelli-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K  Umbria-Italy-Perugia-Around-Museo-dell'Accademia-di-Belle-Arti-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Museo dell’Accademia di Belle Arti

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In the Academy of Fine Arts

founded in 1573: the museum presents in its main gallery, the plasters of famous artists such as Michell’Angelo and in the two other galleries, paintings, drawings and prints.

I lingered long among the plasters (some with giant proportions). The inspiring nice space also boasts a lovely natural light.

Déjeuner à l’Umbrò

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At the beginning of the afternoon I am happy to finally sit down and have lunch at the Umbrò, a friendly modern place, both fast food and fine grocery of Italian products. To be continued …

Photos : © Mademoiselle Le K – Tous droits réservés

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Regione Umbria, PAAST route and Alitalia

Related posts : DESTINATIONS & LIFESTYLE

Many thanks for this beautiful invitation to Regione Umbria et Alitalia. As always these opinions are my own.

Umbria, Italia: To Stroll In Spello, Truffle Hunting In Norcia

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Perugia via Rome

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The Trip Is Pretty Long

because there is a change of plane in Rome, where I – in fact we have – almost missed our connection as we were taken by our chat (no comment, lol!). It’s always a pleasure to return to Italy and speaking Italian again!

On the above photo montage, 1. the eternal city, Rome viewed from the sky and 2. first impressions of Umbria, whose capital is Perugia. I am very curious, this is my first time in this region of the center of Italy!

A Walk In Spello

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Getting Lost And Wander

Few time to freshen up and then we arrive in Spello. From the ramparts of the medieval town, great views of the Umbrian plain dotted with cypress trees. Light breeze, night falls softly. Languidly strolling in flowery empty narrow streets and discovering a Roman triumphal arch …

Each year between May and June for the Flower Festival of Corpus Christi (Infiorante), Spello streets turn into a huge carpet of flowers and sacred art paintings made of flower petals are used as decorations. Spello is then renamed “Flower Capital”.

We stop for dinner at Locanda del Postiglione, a restaurant of local specialties with gargantuan proportions! From the second course, I couldn’t eat more. On the menu: chicken liver accompanied by toasts with olive oil, gnocchi with red wine and gorgonzola sauce, Umbria meats, guanciale (crispy bacon) with green salad and balsamic, porchetta (pork). Not to forget the dessert!

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Truffle Hunting in Norcia

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Lovely Meeting

The next day, early morning departure to Norcia and truffle hunting! I am so excited, like a child who goes hunting for treasure! Umbria is the largest provider of truffles in Italy. The truffle, both tuber and trace grows underground in symbiosis with trees (without being a parasite).

There are 7 types of truffles: 5 black and 2 white. The most famous and tasty are: the winter black truffle (Tuber melanosporum), the price varies between € 400-600 per kilo. And the white winter truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico. Depending on the rarity and size, its price is between €2,000-6,000 per kilo.

Nicola Berardi is a truffle hunter (photo montage above). He proudly shows me his official permit issued by the municipality (photo below). A deep complicity links Nicola to his dogs, Nina (the brown hair dean) and Lulu (the fiery youngster with black hair).  

As we move ahead on a small dirt road, Nicola explains that from the age of three months, any hunting dog can be trained to hunt truffles. And female dogs are better than male dogs. This is a game for the dogs that are rewarded when they find a truffle. It’s also a way to prevent them from eating.

Lulu repeatedly sinks in coppices, digs and returns victorious, a truffle stuck between her teeth. Unlike pigs, dogs learn to bring back truffles to the master and their bite doesn’t damage the truffle. The best places to find truffles are around the trees (mostly oaks), abandoned vineyards and riverbanks.    

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Truffle Dinner in Norcia

Umbria-Italy-Norcia-Dinner-With-Truffles-Ristorante-Granaro-del-Monte-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

The downpour stopped our inland truffle hunting. Back to Norcia, where I discovered my vast room in the elegant Palazzo Seneca before dinner (photo montage below, 3. the entrance of the Palazzo Seneca).

Norcia is a quiet charming little town of about 5,000 inhabitants which takes its name from Nortia (Latin: Nursia), the Etruscan goddess of time, fate, destiny and chance. First colony founded by the Sabines in the fifth century BC, Norcia was conquered by the Romans in the third century BC (and then had 60,000 inhabitants), followed by the Goths and the Lombards in the sixth century who integrated the city in the Spoleto Ducat (Ducato Longobardo di Spoleto). After a period of decline, Norcia became one of five regions of the Papal States.

Photo montage above: 1 and 6. on the main square, Piazza San Benedetto, the statue of Benedict of Nursia, San Benedetto, the “inventor” of monastic life and founder of the Benedictine order who was born in Norcia at fifth century.

2 et 4. The black truffle and prosciutto are specialties of Norcia. Very good dinner with fresh truffles at the Ristorante Granaro del Monte, with Vincenzo Bianconi, one of the owners of the restaurant and Palazzo Seneca.  

Umbria-Italy-Norcia-Dinner-With-Truffles-Ristorante-Granaro-del-Monte-2-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Photos : © Mademoiselle Le K – Tous droits réservés

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Regione Umbria and Alitalia

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Many thanks for this beautiful invitation to Regione Umbria et Alitalia. Thanks to Nicola Berardi and Vincenzo Bianconi too. As always these opinions are my own.

Madeira: Funchal, Gardens, Dolphins, Poncha &…

Madeira-Portugal-Funchal-Mercado-dos-Lavradores-Market-Flowers-Fish-Food-2-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Mercado dos Lavradores

Madeira-Portugal-Funchal-Mercado-dos-Lavradores-Market-Flowers-Fish-Food-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Early Morning: The Covered Market of Funchal

First surprise, the profusion of tropical flowers at the market entry: the same flowers as in Africa and the West Indies. Ditto for certain fruits and vegetables, such as christophine: one of my favorite vegetables in the Caribbean!

Two discoveries: the custard apple that looks like a green apple pine (on the above photo montage). In fact, a variant of soursop. And second discovery, the curuba or banana poka or banana passion fruit (the first photo of this post).

Part of the market is dedicated to fish. On the photo below: huge Atlantic tuna (I thought tuna was a Mediterranean fish, oops!) … Fish of all sizes and colors, seafood … and many tourists.

Madeira-Portugal-Funchal-Mercado-dos-Lavradores-Market-Flowers-Fish-Food-3-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Santa Maria Street

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In The Old Town,

close to the Mercado dos Lavradores, the Santa Maria Street houses the art project “Arte Portas Abertas project”: a collection of doors painted by a hundred artists from Madeira (photo montage above). 

At lunchtime, the street comes alive with many terraces and restaurants. In the evening, it’s crowded. There are a myriad of bars, where you can taste the famous Poncha, mixture of aguardente de cana, honey and lemon. You can also taste one of the different versions with fruit juices … Super strong cocktail: watch out sensitive stomach! LOL!

Monte Palace Tropical Garden

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Funchal: City View From Above 

A five minute walk from Santa Maria street, we take the cable car to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, owned by the Berardo Foundation. On 70,000 m², more than 100,000 of plants, some from the Laurel forest (Laurissilva Forest, endemic in Madeira), plus a Japanese garden and a Chinese garden (photo above).

In the Monte Palace Museum, I discovered “African Passion”, the Berardo collection of stone sculptures from Zimbabwe artists (photo montage below, right side) and the “Mother Nature Secrets” space with 700 samples minerals.

In the gardens, I really enjoyed the Klein Blue panel (of Four Elements of Nature), representing water and the collection of Azuleros (ceramic tiles) from the 15th to the 20th centuries scattered in different walks. I couldn’t see all of them (time flies!). My advice, plan 1 or 2 hours to visit without rushing.

Madeira-Portugal-Funchal-Cable-Car-To-Monte-and-Monte-Palace-Tropical-Garden-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Swimming With The Dolphins

Madeira-Portugal-Funchal-Dolphin-Watching-Boat-Trip-1-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K.

Departure From The Marina

Funchal. I do not know why, but I love everything relates to the sea! Hence the excitement, a kind of trance, winning the broad in the zodiac, with our guides, the captain and a friendly dynamic biologist (photo below black and white). I do my second or third Periscope (live stream)! So sorry, no great pictures of our friends the dolphins, I was filming!

When a pod of dolphins (really impressive in water) swim near the zodiac, water is put to you. The zodiac retains his speed to follow the dolphins (and they go fast) while you hang with a firm hand the rope that connects you to the boat, you dive with a mask and snorkel with nice waves on the surface!

Under water the perception of speed is stronger than on the boat: you’re pulled by the boat, it’s really physical. We were only two girls to swim! Another important detail if you are a woman, put on a one-piece suit (not a trikini)! I spent my time trying to keep my bikini bottom, which partly ruined the show. I even had to don a wetsuit! Yep!

But the little I’ve seen in the water is magic! And yet I have already dived surrounded by seals (magic too!). If you go to Madeira, definitely you have to swim with dolphins, especially if you are respectful of nature: here, they do not feed the dolphins to swim near the boat! Dolphins come and go as they please … which also means that you can not see any ; )

Rota dos Cetaceos

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Break @ The Pestana Casino Park

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The dolphins trip ended, I go get changed at the hotel and then continue with the interview of the interior designer Nini Andrade Silva.

Photo above: the restaurant’s hall of Pestana Casino Park has a 70s and 80s vintage touch. It could have been used as a set for a movie of Jean-Pierre Melville …

Dinner @ The Restaurante do Forte

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The Surprise!

An awesome cabriolet from the 30s picks up us at the hotel to drop us off at Restaurante do Forte, located in the São Tiago Fort close to Santa Maria Street. The setting is enchanting with a view overlooking the Ocean from the ramparts!

We ended the evening tasting the different versions of poncha in the Venda Velha, a nice bar of Santa Maria street, LOL! To be continued

Madeira-Portugal-Funchal-Dinner-@-Restaurante-do-Forte-Foorte-de-Sao-Tiago-Near-Old-Town-Food-Photo ©Mademoiselle Le K

Photos : © Mademoiselle Le K – Tous droits réservés.

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Visit Madeira, Visit Portugal & TAP

Related posts : DESTINATIONS &  HOTEL REVIEWS  

Many thanks for this beautiful invitation to Visit Madeira, Visit Portugal and TAP. As always all my opinions are mine.