Tag Archives: Shop

Eley Kishimoto: the Soho interview, London

In Eley Kishimoto, I love me myself and I! Lucky girl, after many months, they travel a lot, I travel a lot… I have an appointment with 50% of the couple: Mark Eley. Wakako Kishimoto is the creative and Mark is in charge of the business. And they work on the story of the collection together.

 

I come at Maison Bertaux a bit excited, I really like their work. I sat at the table outside, quite surprised to be on time. Mark’s got a strong Welsh accent: I didn’t understand on phone we meet downstairs the tearoom, at  the Poppy Brooks shop, “Madame”, an old friend of the Eley Kishimoto. What a great idea to bring together a trendy shop (with brands as Eley Kishimoto, APC, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel et Obey and Vivienne Westwood…), with a “one century and half ” old tearoom, making French pastries (or supposed to be). Modernity and tradition. English patchwork!

– I don’t know what I’m doing (laughter). I’m a designer, not an accessories designer. I’d like to call myself control freak.

Marks says laughing and he doesn’t want to be taken in picture, I respect: his portrait below, don’t expect more than this mysterious picture.

– Wakako and I, we met drunk in a New York exhibition in 89. We got back in London and started to work together in 92 and got married. Then we created our label in 96 and signed our first co-branding with Eless.

 

Then they will collaborate with Alexander McQueen, Vuitton, Marc Jacobs. A colorful innovative style, with their own “done by hands” print technique for the patterns. Mark and Wakako are teachers at the prestigious Saint Martins School too.

– We have our studio in Brixton and twelve people team and we do everything by hand. Brixton still has a spirit… because it was cheap too and for the creative spirit. And there’s a colorful market.

  

What about the Eley Kishimoto customer ?

– She likes prints, she is independent and fashionista. Wakako makes clothes for her and she wears them. I enjoy Paris women get dressed.

Since last Women’s collection, Mark and Wakako have been the new artistic directors of Cacharel:

– We are very very lucky. Cacharel is feminine and pretty. Eley Kishimoto is more aggressive with an artistic statement, like a smack in face. We are working with l’Oréal for Cacharel perfume. We are very open with our label too: working on new projects for home, toys and the decoration of a hotel in London (they also decorated “Madame” shop)…

Mark’s to go to another appointment: big thanks Mark and see you soon dear Eley Kishimoto! Next RV in September-October for the Women’s collection Spring-Summer 09.

 

I don’t have too much time before going to another part of London, but enough to discover a bit more « Madame », or Poppy Brooks, the bubbly owner of the shop. And also the singer of her dark sad pop music” band (I quote her), All about Eve Babitz and also a celeb blogger. I really like this no hang-ups multiplicity of talents, concentrated in one person. So Anglo-Saxon! Absolutely different than our French cultural consensus, where you just “can” be one single thing all your life and more, to gain a “national” credibility. Wow! No comment! And I forgot, she is also a DJ, course! A really stylish character. Congratulations Madame!

Madame shop at Maison Bertaux : 27 Greek Street. Basement. Soho. London W1D 5DF

Going out into the street, I was in Louisiana… London roks baby !

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Dover Street Market, London

Window reflection or game of my overactive imagination: Karl, the unique, would join me here in London, in the Dover Street Market’s window, Rei Kawakubo’s smart concept store, the stylist of Comme des Garçons.

Intrigued I get inside: yes that’s Karl! Focal length problem, not one, two: numerous Karl in life-size. I work too much. Rub my eyes, to be 100 % sure… the hall dotted with some Karl, here near carryings at the first floor, second floor…

Vertigo, rain of… Yes it’s raining some Karl at the Dover Street Market! What a headline! Focus on the small carrying dedicated to Christopher Kane, the ultimate “darling” designer of the Brit fashion journalists. I wanted to see and touch “for real” his creations. And I confess, I really like them. Especially this white chiffon dress, absolutely fabulous.

Already another Karl comes up, then a battalion of Replicants. How do they do to increase so fast? Reloads of Karl! I beat a hasty retreat in the Victorian room, decorated with immaculate white Tudor axes on a wall and a recycle (I hope, my “green” side) cardboard fireplace. It’s the shoes and bags corner, you can find some Pierre Hardy…

I go up onto the roof, having some fresh air. Two, three… a Karl triptych receive me, mechanically I answer:

– No, I’m not a number!

So surprised to ear me playing “The Prisoner”.

– A glass of water, Mademoiselle Le K ?

– Thanks… Karl !!!

www.doverstreetmarket.com

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Look books Paris Women’s Collection Fall-Winter 2008/2009 

 

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East End, London: Shopping

– Where can I find  Bernard Willhelm in the Est End (the triendest district of London) ?

The kind of absurd flash gives a bit of spice to the trendsetter shopping, as a urge. Agnes, a Londoner photographer agent, smiles getting in Goodhood. An edgy small concept store, very Brit and “color me bad”. Laid back atmosphere and selection of pretty underground fashion designers and streetwear brands. And Agnes shows me this beautiful striped dress of Bernard Willhelm (picture below). Good job Ms! I really like the dress, the shop still confidential and the delightful young owners couple.

She is Jo Sindle, a specialized denim designer and he is Kyle Stewart, a graphic designer. They’ve started working in fashion ten years ago:

– For three years, we’ve also done design consulting for big brands like Levi’s and a small collaboration with Paul Smith.

Since the shop opening in September 2007, it’s been a big success :

– It’s really nice people you don’t know, know the shop. Honestly we choice what we like to wear and go with our instinct.

I really enjoy discovering some of the brands like :

– Pam (Australian crazy streetwear), Wood Wood (presented as the Danish brand of the laid back avant-guarde streetwear), Rittenhouse (another Australian brand)… A choice between fashion designers and brands. The shop policy : prices from 5 to 500 pounds.

Goodhood: 41 Coronet Street, London, N1 6HD

Related posts : DESTINATIONS