Tag Archives: Fashion Designer

Angel Lili Marlene: Esther Perbandt

A lovely short time in the Paris collections rush: the bags and accessories private sale of a Berliner fashion designer, Esther Perbandt. I come late in the cosy small press office of her Parisian agent.

 

A tall dark-haired girl with a Louise Brooks fringe leads me to a room full of white, black, silver, bags and jewels and chains. Esther, for me: Esther-Lili Marlene! Then starts an absolutely improvised interview. Blue Angel talks an irresistible English (like mine I suppose!) and uses an impeccable French to precise. Her fingers play with a white wine glass. I’ve always liked a lot  Berlin, German Expressionism, Krafwert, Inspector Derrick and Charming.

– Berlin has changed for 5 years. In West Berlin (surrounded by East Germany) we were really living like in island and I always have the feeling to be “someone” special. Most of Berliners feel it too. When the wall felt, I was fourteen. I went with my hammer and I picked some pieces of the wall with graffiti. It’s so unique, strange. 

Dear Berlin ! Esther-Lili Marlene is a tough gir of Berlin: “the rough way we talk, slangish Berlin”. The Berliner knows well Paris: in 2001 she is graduate of IFM, the French Institut of Fashion. Then she moves to the South of France, to work as an assistant designer at Chacok:

– It was really a big challenge.

Esther loves black, white and very few colors, like this really light yellow. She « jumps in the cold water » and creates her brand in 2003, with a first women’s collection « it’s not  really super pointu, it’s – quand même – avant-garde ».

– My style : a contrast between feamal and male aspect. Fluent drappy, soft sharp or line. Just this is boring. I always have to break it with male aspect : stacking up shirts, straight lines. Really rock heavy chains and leather. And Viscose and silk and coton. It might be sexy, but not “premier degré”.  The « sexy » way of Perbandt : a strong personality, unusual beauty, woman’s laugh.

– Maybe, I’m describing myself.

She has a pensive look at her wine glass, then spruce again :

– Black sheep, was my collection of this summer. I’ve always considered myself as black sheep. My « organic » father has a big sheep farming. 

– Winter Garden, my last collection (Fall-Winter 2008-2009) is the best. It’s a breath, freedom. I used to be called « Bird ». Birds are eveywhere in this collection. I can really identify myself in each pieces. The right balance between commercial and pointu (edgy).

– I live and work in Berlin. And my bags are produced in East Germany, but my customers are not Berliner. German don’t pay attention of what they put on, but I’m selling a lot in Japan.

And also in Paris, at Musée des Arts Décoratifs (jewels), Germany, Danemark, Italy, Switzerland and Canada. In her 2008 wishlist, she fills a commercial agent, a financier and an assistant.

And When Angel Lili Marlene-Esther Perbandt stays in Paris :

– I like to sleep, have a  glass of white wine at cheap brasserie, watch people concerning to their look and beautifull small guys. French guys are small, aren’t they ?

Common big laugh : I miss Berlin, a kind of tough simplicity. The angel’s gone. Thank you Esther ! Maybe to be continued in Berlin…

 

www.estherperbandt.com 

 

Related posts : 

Meeting Esther Perbandt in her shop in Mitte, Berlin  

INTERVIEWS & DESTINATIONS

 

Video and pictures of Elie Saab show, with a special guest Adriana Karambeu

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Great job Mister Saab !

Better than any fashionista’s big speech: enjoy this second video on my blog! Made with my buddy Ixus. What a pity my memory card was almost full when the show started.

Red and few big shots of an architectural dress and a really fluent and feminine other one. Cocktail dresses… movies dresses. I can imagine Gena Rowlands in the fluent dress in Cassavetes movies. Or a hitchcock blond heroine. 

And the tall-issime celeb too: Adriana Karambeu on the front row, escorted by photographers, not paparazzi, super excited press photographers. Big mess. And I wondered if she was as famous all around the world? Existential. Tomorrow I take some gossip magazines, I really need to get informed!

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www.eliesaab.com

Thanks to Zeina Raphael

Related posts: Fashion & Look Books

Video: Barbara Bui Fall-Winter 2008

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How presenting you Barbara Bui show Fall-Winter 2008? With a video! Victory Mademoiselle! Wow finaly I made it: first online video I filmed and edited on this blog! 

Barbara Bui rocks. Keeping in my editing the chic rebel spirit ! Let’s roll! Androgyne long figures, vertigo “building” eels… I want, I crave for the red ones! Beautiful fabrics: chiffon, leather, alpaca, satin, mohair, superb fox, oups! I forgot fringes: the Poncahontas little touch, so trendy!

My sexiest “silhouette”: the mix of black leather trousers and this black heavy fur coat moving against the loops tempo of “Too Much Love”, the hypnotic music of the great Charles Shilling. Ooh Baby u blow my mind! 

www.barbarabui.fr